How Far Can the Potato Go?
Gangwon State is, without question, Korea’s potato heartland. The region accounts for more than 30% of the nation’s potato production, and Gangneung potatoes in particular are well known for their flavor and quality, thanks to a climate that is cool in summer and mild in winter. Long a vital crop in times of food scarcity, the potato is, for the people of Gangneung, comfort food in the truest sense. Potato pancakes enjoyed at the Danoje festival market, fluffy boiled potatoes eaten after a summer swim, braised potatoes that keep you reaching for more rice, and piping-hot potato Ball soup that tastes all the better when a chilly wind blows: each of these dishes carries the wisdom of earlier generations.
Today, Gangneung’s potato dishes are far more than a way to fill an empty stomach; they have become a precious asset that represents the city’s history and culture. The skill of earlier generations, who could whip up all kinds of dishes from a single potato, lives on in new foods brimming with fresh ideas and creativity. Here is a look at the many faces of the humble potato, from time-honored dishes to new creations shaped by changing tastes.
Gamja Ongsimi
(Potato Ball Soup): A Satisfying Meal in a Bowl
Gamja ongsimi (potato Ball soup), a signature local dish of Gangneung, takes a great deal of work. Peeled potatoes are grated and the liquid squeezed out; the grated pulp is set aside, and the liquid is left to stand so that the starch settles out. The pulp and starch are then mixed into a dough, pinched off bit by bit, and shaped into small balls, which are simmered in an anchovy and kelp broth with zucchini, shiitake mushrooms, and other ingredients.
The ingredients in gamja ongsimi are few, but the time and care that go into it yield a rich, layered flavor. Admittedly, the texture, chewy with a slightly grainy bite, may feel unfamiliar at first. But as the mellow, earthy flavor of the potato and the thick, hearty broth win you over, you will find yourself emptying the bowl in no time.
In the lean years of the past, when food was scarce, gamja ongsimi filled empty stomachs. It is not a dish that shows off; it quietly lets its ingredients speak for themselves. Its identity lies in that simplicity, and it has been handed down unchanged to this day.
Gamjajeon
(Potato Pancakes): A Taste of Nostalgia for Gangneung Locals
Gamjajeon (potato pancakes) is a popular everyday food in Gangneung, and one that nobody seems to dislike. As with gamja ongsimi, the potatoes are grated and the starch is left to settle; the starch is then mixed back into the grated pulp, seasoned with salt, and pan-fried with chili peppers, garlic chives, or other additions.
Gangneung locals have a special love for gamjajeon. There was a time when the road into Gangneung Jungang Market was lined with stalls frying them up on the spot. During the Gangneung Danoje Festival, people would gather in small groups at the nanjang (the lively festival market) to bond over gamjajeon and makgeolli (unfiltered rice wine). The city has held a gamjajeon festival to celebrate its affection for this local dish, and people whip them up at home whenever they crave a treat. Today, gamjajeon has become a special food not only for the people of Gangneung but for people around the world. In 2005, Gangneung introduced gamjajeon at a world gastronomy festival in Macao with a cooking demonstration and hands-on session that drew an enthusiastic response.
Gangneung’s signature local dishes, gamjajeon and gamja ongsimi, along with gamjatteok (steamed potato cakes), rice cooked with potatoes, and braised potatoes, stir memories and nostalgia in local residents and serve as a living record of the city’s history and everyday life.
Potatoes Reinvented as Snacks
Recently, new potato-based foods have become a big hit with tourists in Gangneung, especially younger travelers. Street snacks that look like deep-fried gamja ongsimi, snacks made from less marketable potatoes, and treats of shredded potato pressed and cooked like waffles are leading the way in promoting this local specialty through inventive recipes and ideas.
In particular, gamjappang, a bun made from rice-flour dough and filled with mashed potato, is a popular edible souvenir with tourists. It looks so much like a real potato that it is fun just to look at, and it is also a wholesome treat you can enjoy without worrying about gluten.
Potato ice cream, a chilled take on a food usually eaten hot, has also become a popular treat. Made with potato powder, this dessert leaves a lasting impression with its potato texture and the natural sweetness and mellow, earthy flavor of the potato. Creative experiments like these, turning the local potato into new menu items, keep coming, and Gangneung’s food culture grows richer by the day.
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